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One of the disadvantages of much electronics is finding enough chips to connect everything together. For a desktop computer, you may need additional jacks for monitor, printer, desktop speakers, wireless routers, mobile devices, and other devices. For a home theater system, there are televisions, stereo receivers / amplifiers, preamps, subwoofers, speakers (sometimes), turntables, DVD / Blu-ray players, game consoles, and cable set-top boxes.

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What is the best way to protect your equipment? It’s risky to connect your audio and video equipment to unprotected power outlets. Lightning is the obvious danger. However, small outbreaks, spikes and falls occur every day. They can also damage your equipment. In this guide I will help you choose the best surge protector for your configuration or situation.

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What you should look for in a surge-protector

If you live in a city, there is generally less chance of a big boost in your home and you can probably get a rated voltage of 2000 volts (2kV), while in rural areas you probably need 4000 volts (4kV). The numbers are included in the package.

Protection for communication port connections
Some cards provide protection for communication ports such as coaxial cable, Ethernet networks, modems, telephone and fax lines.

The circuit breakers are not the same
The overload is caused by connected devices that consume a lot of energy, for example, when at the same time consuming devices such as toaster and teapot are used. A circuit breaker is designed to reduce the performance of the card to prevent damage and possibly even fire. Whether over-voltage protection or not, most power cards have a built-in fuse or a circuit breaker. It is important to note that a circuit breaker does not provide overvoltage protection.

Smoothing of energy fluctuations
Energy fluctuations are inevitable and worse in some regions than others. You can damage your equipment in the long run. Some surge protectors and inverters offer line filtering or electromagnetic interference (EMI) with a technical focus. This reduces or eliminates line noise (electrical interference) and provides a cleaner power line that protects your equipment from power outages and surges.

Tips for choosing the right surge protection for the electronics

The solution? Get a valve/splitter output that would normally be your surge-protector or power strip. While these two options offer extra takes, here's where the general similarities end. Most (but not all) surge-protectors are also outputs, but the power strips are not surge protectors. Often you see both types together in the same corridor as your local hardware or electronics store. But do not take the first one you notice! There are significant differences and benefits that need to be considered.

Surge Protector vs. Power Strip

At first glance, surge protectors and electric bands seem to do the same. But while the power strips are essentially multiple output extensions, surge-protectors are designed to protect electronic devices against (as you suspect) electrical surges (and spikes).

The most common overvoltage events occur when energy demand changes, especially if the building has old or faulty electrical wiring. Did you notice that the lights flash or dim every time you turn on the refrigerator, air conditioner, hair dryer, or other high-performance device? This sudden energy demand can lead to a short-term increase in the demanding circuit and affect all connected sockets. In North America, any amount above the standard voltage of 120V is considered excess. Small waves can occur at any time without signal and still exceed the normal operating voltage of a product.

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